a leak check (be careful with rotor brake, too). If the machine has been frozen to the ground, one skid may come free first and cause dynamic rollover. If it has not already been freed, pull collective until ready to lift and crack it free with a little pedal movement, though on a big machine you might want to use engine torque for the same effect, otherwise you might bend the tail boom. You could also try gently circulating the cyclic, or pulling down on the tail boom before starting if the machine is light enough. Taxi slowly with caution if the taxiways are clear of snow. If not, taxi higher and slightly faster then normal to keep out of the resulting snow cloud. If you have wheels, act as if you have no brakes. Marshallers should be well clear and move slowly themselves. If the heater is required to be off in the hover, ensure the blower is on, to help clear the windscreen. Whiteout See under Visibility. Taking off In snow, the accepted takeoff method is the towering type, because a normal one may produce a large snow cloud to blind air and ground crews, and a failed engine (you may be able to blow a lot of loose snow away with a little application of collective before the take-off proper). If a white-out does happen, apply maximum collective for an immediate climb and forward cyclic (i.e. no hover), keeping the ball centred and using the A/H if necessary, but the real key is keeping a visual reference. If you have it, exercise the gear once or twice to dislodge any slush, etc. that may have stuck to the legs, to stop it freezing. With any piston engine, use carb heat regularly and check instrument readings frequently for carb icing. Have carb heat fully on or off, but not on for prolonged periods—it increases fuel consumption (see also Engine Handling). The Cruise Mountain wave clouds can be loaded with heavy ice at remarkably low temperatures (remember that low pressures and low temperatures will cause your altimeter to read high). When using anti-icing, take into account the inaccuracy of the 236 Operational Flying temperature gauges, so if you must turn it on at 4°, and the temperature gauge is only accurate to within 2, start thinking about it at 6°. Wet and sticky snow has more chance of icing, and is associated with low visibility, which would indicate that you shouldn’t be flying anyway. Luckily, light powdery snow tends not to accumulate, but will still give you the leans. Whatever type you fly in, use snow baffles. Visibility, by the way, includes the inside! When it’s very cold, water vapour (from clothes, breath, etc.) will freeze on the windscreen, so warming up the machine before passengers get in will help a lot. Landing Aeroplanes See also Performance, above. Helicopters Landing Sites should be selected with a view to pulling out of a resulting snow cloud if necessary. That is, you may need to escape somewhere. As with landing on mountains, there are various schools of thought about landing on snow. One is the zero/zero method (zero speed, zero height), for which you carry out a normal approach, using a constant attitude with minimum changes, losing translational lift at the last minute. Aim to keep going forward and downward until a few inches above the snow, so the downwash is always behind you, using the aircraft shadow, a smoke grenade or the landing light to provide texture to the surface. Even a fuel drum makes a good visual reference. Another good trick is to use a dark-painted stake with a flag on it – the flag makes the stake behave like a dart, so the point goes into the snow, and acts as a wind indicator afterwards. Do not hover, don’t go beyond the marker, and try to land just as the snow cloud develops. When you commit yourself, however, you will need to check the firmness of the surface, which is not usually a problem at a camp or something, as the ground crew will have done this for you. The danger lies when you're going to an unchecked site for the first time. Touch down lightly without delay, treating it as a sloping ground landing, as the vibration of the |